Location: 866 Bloor Street West, Toronto
The burger at Station Bar & Kitchen is solid. I’ve had better and I’ve definitely had worse. Nothing about it particularly stands out, but if you’re looking for a hamburger, it’s there. It exists, and it won’t make you sad.
I know that’s faint praise, but what are you going to do? Not every burger can be a home run.
The “Station Cheese Burger,” per their menu: “7 ounce beef brisket patty ground in-house with our secret spice mix, on a toasted brioche burger bun with house made burger sauce and a slice of melted cheddar. Topped with lettuce, tomato and onions.”
The reference to a spice mix had me worried; this has been discussed ad nauseam on this blog, but once you mix spices directly into a hamburger patty, it starts losing its essential burgeriness. It becomes meatloaf.
Thankfully, that wasn’t the case here. Though I think they had mixed spices into the patty, it was done subtly enough that it wasn’t particularly an issue.
The griddled, medium-well patty was pretty decent — most notably, it was juicy, and the texture of the grind was pretty much exactly where it should be. It also had some crust from the griddle. It’s a solid patty.
I wish the beef itself had more flavour, however. The flavour certainly isn’t bad, but there’s such a distinct lack of beefiness that I briefly wondered if pork was involved.
Everything else was pretty good, from the nicely toasted bun to the zesty mayo-based burger sauce and the mild, melty cheddar.
As for the fries, they’re quite tasty, and come with a little container of gravy that makes for a delightful dipping sauce.
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