Location: 5140 Dundas Street West, Etobicoke
I’ve been at this for almost a decade now, so for the most part, these reviews basically write themselves (what’s that? The reviews all feel like I’m writing them on autopilot? Yeah, that’s fair). But burgers like the one they serve at St. James’s Gate — good, but not noteworthy in any way — are probably the toughest to review.
It’s a solid burger. It exists. There’s nothing majorly wrong with it. I don’t know.
The Royale with Cheese, according to the menu: “Twin four ounce brisket burgers stacked with melted American cheese, Havarti, secret sauce and bread and butter pickles.”
Is it the best burger I’ve ever had? No, absolutely not. Did it offend me in any way? Also no. It’s good.
I will say that the two types of cheese are a nice touch; I’ve never seen the Havarti/American combo on a cheeseburger, and I was skeptical. I thought it might be too much. But they’re both nice and gooey without being overly assertive. It works.
Another bonus: I’m pretty sure that the patties were grilled, which is a nice change of pace from the griddle-smashed patties that you’d expect to find in a burger like this.
Otherwise, the patties are fine. They’re slightly too dense and tough, but they’re nice and juicy, which helps to balance things out. And while there’s nothing particularly noteworthy about the flavour of the beef, it’s fine. It’s inoffensive, and there’s so much other stuff going on here that it doesn’t really stand out as a huge issue.
The other toppings, including the tangy secret sauce, are all about what you’d expect, and the bun — though slightly too toasty and crispy — suits the burger well.
As for the fries, they’re quite good. Unlike the burger, they’re actually quite a bit better than okay.