Location: 30 Eglinton Avenue West, Mississauga
I’ve certainly had worse burgers than the one they serve at The Wilcox, but it’s rare that I eat one that feels so thoroughly misguided on every level.
The Wilcox Burger: “wilcox chuck, brioche, goat cheese, roast red pepper, crispy onions, tomato, arugula.”
I should start with the patty itself, which has been griddled all the way to well done and then some. It has a nice crust on its exterior, but the meat is gray and dry and punishing. It’s the type of burger where you have to be careful not to take big bites, because it’s like trying to eat a pile of saltines — your mouth just can’t produce enough moisture to deal with it.
The flavour is an upgrade over the texture, but it’s not great. This is a kitchen sink burger where the taste of the beef is basically moot, but in the few bites I got of the patty alone, it wasn’t much to write home about. The beef is bland but inoffensive.
Then there’s the goat cheese. I mentioned this in my review of the burger at The Daughter, but you almost never see goat cheese on a cheeseburger, and there’s a reason why. The intense salty flavour and crumbly texture completely overpower the beef.
All of the other toppings are fine, in theory, but the configuration in which they’re applied here just doesn’t work. The mix of flavours is discordant and vaguely unpleasant. They clash. The whole thing feels wrong in a way that’s hard to put your finger on. It’s off.
I came at brunch, so instead of fries, the burger comes with potato hash. The cubes are deep fried, so they basically taste like crispy fries in a slightly different shape. They’re quite tasty.