Location: 115 John Street, Toronto
Website: http://towncrierpub.ca/
The burger at Town Crier Pub could have been a lot worse. I know, I know — not exactly a ringing endorsement. But considering the epic amount of European beers this place has on tap (over fifty, with the tap-lined bar being quite a sight to behold), it’s obvious enough that Town Crier is more about beverages than food. They could have very easily just backed a Sysco truck into their kitchen and called it a day.
So even if I didn’t think the burger was particularly great, I applaud them for making it as decent as it was when they clearly didn’t have to.
The Town Crier Burger is pretty simple — it’s topped with lettuce, tomato, pickles, and onion, with other condiments available by request (I asked for mayo).
The grilled burger is cooked to medium, and is actually pretty juicy, which is a pretty big plus in its favour. But it’s a meatloaf burger, with a really ho-hum flavour. Nothing about it stands out. It’s basically the meatloaf burger equivalent of Jai Courtney: serviceable, but generically bland and unmemorable to a fault.
The texture wasn’t bad, though — a lot of meatloaf burgers tend to be overhandled or sausagey, but this one was loosely packed and fairly tender.
The nutty whole wheat bun would have been disastrous with a more traditional hamburger, but the meatloafy flavour here is able to stand up to it. I still would have preferred white, but it was fresh and generally suited the burger okay.
The fries, too, were much better than they needed to be. Billed as Belgian frites, they weren’t quite as crisp as you’d like fries of that style to be, but they were definitely above average.
(Image of the outside of the restaurant in the header photo courtesy of Caroline’s Culinary Delights. It was quite rainy when I visited and I didn’t particularly feel like getting soaked trying to take a photo.)